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New ideas for the luxury world 22.02.2017 A Lineapelle is already summer. The world's leading trade fair of leather and materials for the fashion world is staged February 21 to 23 in Rho with the news for the S / S 2018, submitted by a number of growing businesses increase from a year ago, when the exhibitors were 1,155, and with a special enhancement of trend areas, dedicated to the selection of the most innovative proposals developed by tanneries, equipment suppliers, component suppliers and tessutai. The first indications on trends tell of new colors, pastel tones that veer towards an unprecedented freshness and digital, and a certain daring in style to support change in the fashion industry, after seasons of relative caution. It focuses on innovation as a means to jump-start an uncertain market, influenced by the unfavorable international economic situation and the political tensions that will inevitably weigh on high-end consumption. Unic, the association of companies in the leather sector, estimated a closure at the end of 2016 (final data will be available in June), down by 4.3% compared to 5.2 billion euro last year, due to the difficulties on the demand for footwear and leather, not entirely compensated by the excellent trend for automotive leather interior. The decrease in sales is distributed more or less evenly between domestic and export markets, the latter falling by 4.9% in value in the first half of 2016 mainly because of the Chinese, for over twenty years the main target of skins made in Italy exports, which has reduced purchases of over 20 percent.The best news come from France (+ 19.2%), United States (+ 10.1%) and India (+ 18.9%). The Milan fair, with the presentation of the news and its attractiveness to the big names in global fashion, acts generally in stimulating demand and also this edition, the number 92 of Lineapelle, should prove the rule. "There is a positive atmosphere, also found in both our previous international meetings in London and New York," he tells Magazine Pambianco Gianni Russo, president of Unic. "We know that we offer our buyers the great looking products and quality and we expect the re-start of some major economies and our downstream sectors". No waiting for the response of US buyers who have already offered a positive signal last Lineapelle New York (1 and 2 February), closed with + 8% turnout. "The United States - highlights Russo, owner of the tannery group of Russian Casandrino (Napoli) - have closed up for the seventh consecutive year and show a fine move down double digits. Among the leading markets appear also France, Spain and the United Kingdom. In Asia there is a rebound of Japan, grew by South Korea, India and Vietnam, the latter partially offsetting the decline in Chinese. They are negative in Germany and Portugal. " The segment of luxury, after two years of deliberation, promises an improvement. "The market is growing, perhaps more in the so-called luxury accessible, but to reassure is the fact that the skin is an absolute essential for almost all of the brands, some of which show excellent performance because innovate and stimulate consumption. Those who can not adapt to the new market scenario, fall behind. " Lineapelle will also be an opportunity to reaffirm the leadership of the Italian tannery in sustainable production, rewarded by the market. "The times - highlights President Unic - is ripe for a new approach to sustainability, which involves the entire leather industry; a paradigm that becomes an integrated element of value to develop practical and efficient way the industrial and trade relations between all parties. " Tanneries have initiated a systematic comparison report with the high-end brand, now transformed into partnership. "We continue and we will continue to work together, considering each other's needs and objectives placing ourselves responsible," concluded Russo. READ MORE
Deep Red 07.03.2017 Reinterpretation. The keyword to outline the main trends of the pre-fall 2017 collection revolves around the revisiting of traditional concepts presented through a new stylistic meaning. The commercial strength of the proposals that anticipate three months the parade look (and thus remain in the stores almost a year) saw the revival of established codes through new formulas.Red, for example, loses its aura of absolute femininity. More than inspire the fluttering scarlet dress worn by Kelly LeBrock in the cult movie 80 years 'The woman in red' color is used for clothing soaked in the contemporary world. The femme fatale Jessica Rabbit gives way to the working woman in pantsuits, as proposed by Riccardo Tisci in the latest ready-to-wear collection for Givenchy. It's lacquer, purple or scarlet hue follows, it must be said, a thread that by impalpable volumes Lanvin arrives at Miu Miu fur coat to coat paint signed Msgm.Similarly, the skin is not only used as an emblem of rock-punk mood but buys a romance novel. A total black trousers and nails are flanked put girly as minidress with lace-trimmed Francesco Scognamiglio or hyper decorated clothes of Alessandro Michele for Gucci. The fetish references vanish thanks to bows, ribbons and ruffles protagonists of an irresistible style crash. Rather than related to the members of suits worn by Halle Berry in 'Catwoman' the leather proposals seem ready to wear, without malice, by the new Insta-star Selena Gomez and Ariana Grande. Even denim, workwear fabric from Heritage, loses the characteristics that have made him famous and is absorbed by the collective deconstruction.The boyfriend jeans so popular in recent seasons give way to cutting edge pants and, above all, to a myriad of skirts. The weight of the cloth does not seem to affect the flimsiness of the garments. Kate Spade New York combines different shades of blue playing with a color blocking retro flavor. Jeremy Scott Moschino print Renaissance scenes of dresses with contrasting stitching closed with traditional metal buttons; creative gimmick would be greatly appreciated dall''angelico Elio Fiorucci.But they remain anchored to the sartorial canons evening dresses. Fabrics slipped and geometric cuts accentuate verticality interrupted only by strategic slits. Silk, satin and chiffon are the main protagonists of creations designed for special occasions, events, galas, award ceremonies. Brand renowned for their high rate of sex appeal are fertile ground accentuating the feminine curves with wisdom and sometimes ruthlessness. Dall'omaggio to Imperial Rome Fausto Puglisi metropolitan sirens Roberto Cavalli: glamor factor is not facing extinction.It's been more than twenty years but 'Lemon tree', summer hit of the German band Fool's Garden, perfectly describes the yellow fever that is spreading in many ateliers. The primary color, former star of the men's catwalks for autumn / winter 2017-18, illuminates both formal and casual outfits that. Paired with shoes in neutral colors or contrasting accessories such as Emilio Pucci proposed electric blue. The brightness of pastel shades are gradually coming reduces the tones of mustard or, as on the Valentino catwalk, get to shine by focusing on acidic pigments. The hood deserves the title of the head must have perfectly combining charm and practicality. Perfect for early autumn chills the garment is enriched with applications and retro decor. The lengths vary according to the occasion of use; over the knee when it serves as outerwear against bad weather (Fendi, Sonia Rykiel), shorter in the complementary role as suggested by Versace and Blugirl.Maria Grazia Chiuri, artistic director of Christian Dior, customize it with a micro printer pied-de-poule that, combined with boots and hat with visor, a nod to a uniform urban rider ready to ride just following their own pace. READ MORE
So many words! .. It all started with the debut catwalk Maria Grazia Chiuri by Christian Dior. Last September the new creative director of French fashion house had proposed an immaculate t-shirt featuring the slogan 'We Should all be feminists'. Six months after the messages have multiplied enormously and, thanks to the election of Donald Trump, the collections for the 2017-18 autumn / winter have been hit by an unprecedented political value. 'The future the female', 'Revolution has no borders', 'I am an immigrant', 'Neverteless she persisted', the designer of Nepalese Prabal Gurung origins use their heads as posters to communicate all his disapproval of the recent decisions taken by the US administration in terms of civil rights.On the same trail also, among others, Creatures of comfort, Christian Siriano and Public School. During the Milan fashion week slogans acquire different meanings, Versace flagship women's emancipation by synthesizing the concepts in individual terms on clothing, accessories and footwear: courage, loyalty, love, equality, unified. Moschino, Jeremy Scott and Grinko veer towards the irony while the heads of Stella Jean reads' One. No one. 100,000 km ', an acronym that symbolizes the one and only land of birth of each individual, it is impossible to measure the subjective interiority and the miles that could be used to get close to distant peoples and cultures.The Milan fashion shows are the same as usual, with the delivery of the Oscars; evening dresses presented by many brands seem designed especially for the red carpet and accomplices metal shades, even inspired by precious golden statuette. The hyperdecoration Gucci, the Elisabetta Franchi femininity, the forty-year romance of Blumarine, the elegance of Bottega Veneta find their common denominator in laminated creations, glittery, mirrored. A chromatic patchwork instead distinguishes the outfit composed of different tones juxtaposed with contrast; loose cannon who are dwelling put on vibrant colors and shapes.Straight lines and geometric fields on the catwalk by Laura Biagiotti that seems to be inspired by the Suprematist paintings by Piet Mondrian or the series 'Homage to the Square' by Josef Albers. More disordered tiles Christopher Kane, transparencies for Cédric Charlier, learned elements of tune by Giorgio Armani. Fausto Puglisi refines his color blocking with maxi-color stitching décor able to bind and bold lines. Impalpable, light, transparent. Probably some of the "bare creations" views on the catwalk will be partially lined before landing in stores but the sensuality is enacted without tangible doubt. Suits almost evanescent capable of making even slight black. Heels discovered with refinement, the ruffles of Francesco Scognamiglio effect tattoo of Alexander McQueen.Alessandro Dell'Acqua, creative director at N 21, pays tribute to Anna Magnani, the absolute star of the Italian cinema, embroidering bright flowers inspired by the film 'The Rose Tattoo'. Finally, two evergreen: one linked to a double thread female wardrobe, the other stolen to the male. The animal print has become a leitmotif of the collection for the colder seasons. Leopard, jaguar, tiger. The feline spots abound, whether it's real fur (Simonetta Ravizza) or fake (Au Jour Le Jour). Philosophy di Alessandro Serafini appropriates it for trench-coat with a retro twist, Salvatore Ferragamo mixes different patterns, creating a new visual overlay to wear with contrasting accessories, Etro merges the animal signs with the traditional paisley pattern.Marco De Vincenzo, a leading figure of the New Wave made in Italy, offers a unique animal: every single spot is sewn to the head by creating a special 3D effect, and valuable. The fashion show Massimo Giorgetti, founder and creative director of Msgm, was inspired by 'Twin Peaks', cult TV series of the 90s that in a few months will be back on schedule after sixteen years. The striped coat men's cut is just in that period as well as double-breasted jackets Aquilano.Rimondi and the high-waisted trousers Trussardi, all characterized by thin white lines on dark fabric. Formal reason a bit 'gangster, a bit' tomboy, very sensual if deconstructed and used for a skirt with slit like Daks on the catwalk. Nineties are back. READ MORE
The Italians win the Grape Leather H&M Award .. Italians are the winners of the Global Change Award, an annual award of H & M Foundation for innovations that can reinvent the fashion industry. The team, led by Rossella Longobardo and composed of Gianpiero Tessitore, Francesco Merlino and Valentina Longobardo, won the first prize of € 300 thousand due to Grape Leather project, which plans to produce vegetable skins from grapes and the production waste some wine."We are deeply pleased that such a prestigious Foundation has recognized the value of our innovation, and he strongly believed in it," said Rossella Longobardo. "Our first objective will be to focus in the transition from a pilot project in an industrial-scale production of our fabric and start a green revolution, cruelty-free within the leather goods industry, thus resolving the current issues and over- exploitation".The Global Change Award, now in its second edition, had allocated a sum of € 1 million to be divided among the top five, chosen through an online vote. READ MORE
It's the time of luxury outerwear .. The outerwear are experiencing their golden moment. Declare it a bunch of job-seekers led by international buyers who are witnessing the success of an upward-looking product category after collections of recent seasons. "The outerwear - declares to Business of Fashion Lisa Aiken, retail fashion director of Net-a-Porter - is surely proliferating. Women want versatility and more choice. There were moments when you could decide on an outfit and add any coat. Now people have understood the value of a parrot given the amount of situations they are wearing. " In addition to N-a-P, MatchesFashion and Nordstrom seem to be tuned on the same frequency as they have increased their oversupply purchases in the last three seasons: "We have increased the category by about 105% compared to last year," says Aiken. Natalie Kingham, womenswear buying director of MatchesFashion, speaks of a triple digit growth with regard to the luxury women's clothing bought for the A / I 2017-18 season, including brands such as Calvin Klein and Balenciaga.According to Euromonitor, last year the global luxury clothing market reached $ 11 billion, up 8.75 from 2011. The sector includes several sub categories including padded, technical garments, jackets, trenches and coats.Specialized brands such as Moncler, Canada Goose and Yves Salomon welcome the trend with enthusiasm. "The demand to become a three-season brand continues to grow," said Canada Goose's president and CEO, Dani Reiss. And, at the same time, emerging brands are focusing their proposals on the outerwear, in the forefront of Off-White, Awake and Saks Pott. Also Mr & Mrs Italy, a famous Italian brand for its fur collars, has seen growth in the spring / summer season, which now accounts for 20% of total sales.Can the capispallac achieve the success of product categories such as handbags and shoes? Lower earnings margins and traditional seasonal discounts suggest the opposite, not to mention that in 2016 the global value of the luxury stock market was $ 38.8 billion, or 77% larger than the Of the luxury outwear. Nevertheless, the growth margins seem to be very favorable, "As long as brands succeed in maintaining a new dimension in outerwear, we can expect growth in the future. Marks that continue to reproduce the same are at risk, "says Business of Fashion Matt Powell, analyst at the Npd Research Company. READ MORE
Cnmi : 86 billion euros (+ 3%) .. Milan warms engines for an 'extralarge' fashion week. Cnmi-Italian National Fashion House unveiled this morning at a press conference held at Palazzo Marino for details of the upcoming edition, scheduled from September 20 to 25. And the extralarge is no coincidence: to strengthen the calendar, in fact, Milan XL - The Festival of Italian Creativity, the initiative born of the system agreement between the Ministry of Economic Development and the Municipality of Milan, with Confindustria and Foundation Altagamma as a director, thanks to the support of Ice Agency. This initiative will result in 7 installations that will animate the city between 16 and 26 September.Claim of Milan Fashion Woman will be "Follow the Green", to underline the commitment to sustainability undertaken by Cnmi. A theme at the center of Green Carpet fashion awards, the maxi event dedicated to sustainable fashion that will be on stage Saturday, September 24, at La Scala Theater. "They will be Oscars of Sustainable Fashion, during which we will be returning major brands that have undertaken this route with energy, but also craftsmen, producers and young people," said Cnmi President Carlo Capasa. "We wanted to be an event between fashion and show, with great international guests engaged in social and sustainability." Among the presences, confirm the statements by Minister for Economic Development Carlo Calenda and Undersecretary Ivan Scalfarotto.The September edition aims to be the "zero number" of a new fashion week course, with the ambition of transforming Milan into the neural network of the fashion system thanks to the presence of these new events, both Cnmi and the City of Milan aim to make annual. An important showcase for a sector that, according to Cnmi estimates, should record this year a growth of 3% of turnover at 86 billion euros.Returning to the fashion week, there will be 159 summer-2018 collections that will be presented in Milan, including 64 parades, 81 presentations and 20 events between exhibitions, opening and inaugurations. Spotlight on Paul Surridge's debut by Roberto Cavalli and Lucie and Luke Metier by Jil Sander, while Albino Teodoro, Brognano, The-Sirius and Ssheena will be playing for the first time in the capital city of Lombardy. Testimonials of the new Italian and international creativity will once again be the fashion hub market, which in the spaces of the Unicredit Pavillion will show the collections of 14 brands. New in this edition, the Young DHL designer award. READ MORE
The export of Italian leather flies in 6 months (+ 15%) .. Italian leather back to look pink in the first six months of this year. According to official Istat data, released this morning during the Mipel presentation conference, during the January to May period, exports broke 3 billion, up 15% over the same period last year. The increase was lower in quantity (+ 4.6%), as evidenced by the fact that exports of higher value products were exported. "Well done were our best players: Eastern Countries (South Korea, Hong Kong, Japan and China), but also the United States and Europe, the UK and France, have grown almost double digit "Said Pambianconews Danny D'Alessandro, new CEO of Mipel and AD of Aimpes Servizi. Positive also the trade balance of the industry, equal to 1.9 billion. Contrary signals, however, come from data on the consumption of leather goods by Italian households: the number of products purchased has increased (+ 2%), but the average value drops (-2.3 percent).And Mipel, the leather goods fair in Rho Fiera from September 17 to 20, aims to intercept this relaunch. "For the first time in a few years, we have sold out of exhibiting companies, with an increase of 10% of the space sold since February 2017," explains D'Alessandro. "The ambition for next editions is to expand the salon, eventually returning to occupy those spaces that we lost in time." For this edition, number 112, two areas have been confirmed, The Glamourous (in collaboration with Camera Buying Fashion Italian) and Scenario, in partnership with Cnmi and with the involvement of both emerging and Italian and foreign designer designers. The synergy with the Institutions and other industry associations, also in view of the great event of Milan XL, came to light with the participation of Carlo Capasa (President Cnni), Claudio Marenzi (president, among other roles, of Smi) and the Councilor Cristina Tajani. For this purpose, during the Milan Moda Donna event and until 29 October, an exhibition dedicated to Andy Wahrol at the Magenta course will be organized together with the Stelline Foundation, under the project "Mipel in the City". READ MORE
Wisteria pills .. Femininity rediscovers pastel colors for daywear, and glittering metal tones for the evening. Animal prints interpreted with unpublished graphics. The classic black & white alternating with oblique rows. Acid, lime, wormwood, forest, bottle, grass: green conquers the catwalks.Nothing romantic or, citing millennials with built-in smartphone, 'girlish'. Although there is no doubt a pastel shade, wisteria, among the most frequent colors of the spring / summer collections 2018, is not affected by any legacy linked to adolescence but is indeed used to emphasize a certain social emancipation. Max Mara's power suit and Victoria Beckham emphasize a stylistic code that blends lightness and authority without resorting to inflamed nuances such as the usual office gray or predictable total black. In order to emphasize femininity, she uses the impalpable transparencies seen on Angela Missoni's catwalk, which celebrated the age of twenty years at the creative helm of the family maison.After sunset opt ​​for glittery fabrics, the length of the rim is variable but the ground shoes are banditized, given the risk of confusion for high school students. Always animal prints evoke the provocative creations of Roberto Cavalli. Paul Surridge's new creative director of the brand, Paul Surridge, has taken into account the immense seduction desire associated with cat patterns but, at the same time, unpublished graphics have been able to recompile them in a clean, straightforward, contemporary way. The tribute parade dedicated to Gianni Versace on the 20th anniversary of the disappearance of the designer has not only brought back the top model of the legendary 80s on the catwalk but also recalled how much the Calabrian stylist could excel in defying the sensuality of the female body , between pop, baroque and, of course, animalier prints.Prada, Gucci and N ° 21 choose to have a must-have overcoat overcoat over print, maybe painted or beaded with fur. If you do not know where to go to explore new stylistic ways instead of taking refuge in those already run. Let the architects vertical and horizontal lines to dive into an animated wardrobe with oblique rows. The contrasting colors of the bands ensure a joy of living with a retro flavor, see Antonio Marras. The vivacity of the 1980s resonates with bold controversies signed by Philosophy of Lorenzo Serafini and over jackets over the centenary of Dries Van Noten's walkway. From Kenzo and Fendi, however, the lines do not merely follow one direction but meet, clash and overlay in a hypnotic visual crash. To keep your gaze held constantly hostage by the backlit tablets of your tablet and smartphone, you just need to reset the spectral range.Discard special effects and 3D projections in favor of a black and white classic. The timeless charm of Grace Kelly and Isabella Rossellini seems to have inspired the elegant proposals featuring the yin and yang of the chromatic scale. Even a maximistic creator like Fausto Puglisi has turned to the refined black and white of lace, macrame and transparencies inspired by the American icon Carolyn Bessette.From John Richmond 's optics to Marc Jacobs' stylized flowers, the prints seem to give priority only to blinding, dark and absolute darkness, with no intermediate shades except the green. The color less used by fashion designers takes its revenge among wallpapers (Marni), tributes to the East (Roccobarocco) and patchwork (Stella McCartney). From emerald shades to dense woody color, passing through the most acidic pigments to the green ramarro. Perfect in total look or coupled with contrasting accessories, unappetised to those who do not want to dare, ideal for addicted techno-colored filters grown up by overwhelming Andy Warhol's overcoats.The King Mida of Pop Art would certainly appreciate the satin, glittering, brilliant, glittering, glittering clothes that remind them of the diving of the mythical Studio 54. From the mosaics of Maria Grazia Chiuri to Christian Dior to the new-glam proposals by Francesco Scognamiglio, a little eighties, a little fatal femme. The night lights up metal cobblestones that celebrate the vitality of those years by wrinking the eye at the famous cathodic outfit and, at the same time, at the foam of some of our chocolates. Hard times for Mies van der Rohe's supporters: less is a bore. READ MORE
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